Cool overnight, but getting even hotter during the day. Set off at 9.45 a.m. Commercial traffic up and downriver had been busy since 7.00 a.m. opening time. The lock, Marolles lk 13 (2.82m), was full with gates open and a red light. Called the keeper on VHF, got a green light and we were soon through the lock. Loading gravel at the first quay were two pans, Zouc and Tan-Go and tug Dockland, plus Mackenzie was on the inside under the chute loading. At the next quay there were two big pans, Biguine, Raga and 45m pusher Frantz (with a posh shiny satellite dome on the cabin) being loaded by JCB digger. As we passed Momtereau we could see the same boats were on the pontoon, a wrecked yacht and a wooden cabin cruiser.
The same line of houseboats, péniches and cruisers were moored downstream of the bridge. Just before we arrived a commercial coming upriver sweeping fast through the bridge and on to the Yonne had made the water choppy for a few minutes. Lots more péniches were moored on the quay at KP69.5. On round the bend and through the railway bridge. Traffic was catching us up as we approached Varennes lock 1 (2.62m). Pusher péniche pair Go-Ahead and All-Right (loaded at Bray the day before) overtook us. Cruiser Atlantis from Wachtebeke also caught up and hovered behind us and Charley while a lockful of uphill traffic left the lock. La Rose (péniche loaded with sand) and Twister (empty péniche) were moored on the lock approach above the lock.
Megane (55.9m x 6.67m 700 tonnes), pusher péniche pair Antinea and Atlantide and empty pans Paso and Mambo pushed by tug Langeudoc left the lock, then we followed the downhill pusher pair into the chamber. Charley came in behind us and Atlantis on the left hand wall behind the pusher. The crew on the pusher ignored us, as did the keeper in his concrete tower. Invisible again. A small wedge shaped speedboat cruiser was waiting below, he had the whole lock to himself. Charley overtook us then the cruiser overtook both of us, the latter without a word. At KP73 an empty péniche called Mirja went past heading upriver, the skipper had his back to us - so no cheery wave from him either. He was followed by a little Dutch cruiser called Flipper and an empty péniche pusher pair Mano and Luma from Gent - whose skipper waved! Hooray! We’re visible again! Risque from Thuin was waiting to be loaded at the grain silo chute at KP75.5. Péniche Cupidon was being unloaded of his cargo of scrap at the quay downstream of the empty private commercial offline port.
Round a long right hand bend past the EDF power station Richardiéres, mostly hidden by trees. The old lock La Madeleine was full of old boats, mostly wrecks including several old concrete shells, plus a few commercials that might be waiting repair as it looked like a boatyard. A trip boat went uphill as I was making a cuppa. Just before St Mammès we passed a houseboat on the left which had its own private beach – a big pile of imported sand. A dog was paddling up and down in the edge “biting” the waves. Empty péniche Bambi went past heading upriver, then empty péniche Forez, as we passed a row of ex-hireboats (Nichols and Connoisseurs) all moored sterns to the bank – they leapt about in the wash of the passing commercials. We paused at the bunker station and I stepped off with notepad and pen to get prices of diesel, 250 litres of red for us and 100+ litres of white for Nick. The lad said he’d have to phone the boss for the price of red, 74.4c/litre and white was an eye-watering 1,27.6€/litre. Mike had hovered by the quay, we said we might as well top up, so Charley winded and tied on the higher quay to have his white diesel. The pump was by our bows for the white and the red was on the high quay! Two boats, a cruiser and a yacht arrived to take on white and moored on the high quay. The lad said they’d have to move off as a big boat was coming in. Mackenzie arrived as Nick finished tanking up and paid, so he took off and went over the other side of the river. The big boat only stopped to pick up his missus who had been shopping and he also had a big roll of hose and another of rope! Then we moved round on to the high quay and the lad handed Mike the filler to top up our central heating tank with red diesel ready for next Winter. He spoke reasonable English and I asked him to shout out the numbers (of litres from the pump) for us as we couldn’t see it and I couldn’t get off easily (not in a skirt – no ladder either). A British yacht had moored behind us and a large Belgian cruiser called Savannah was on the low quay filling up. Charley had moored on the quay opposite and was having lunch. We went to see if we could find Gil’s boat, Tigris. There were loads of boats moored at the bottom end of the Loing. As we approached the railway bridge the Belgian cruiser Savannah went past, no one spoke. Found Tigris with another péniche moored alongside, so we couldn’t just bang on the hull to say hello – gave up, and headed for the lock. Savannah was messing about by the moorings, Mike asked if they were going up the lock and got no answer – they reversed towards the last mooring spot on the wooden landings, we had to take avoiding action or his stern would have rammed our bows. Ignorance. We went into the empty lock chamber and I went up the ladder with our centre rope. Looped the rope around a bollard and went to find the keeper. A sign on the little lock cabin said “sonner” so I did and a loud claxon went off. The keeper, a young lad, came from a house beyond the trees at the back of the cabin. He pressed buttons to work the lock and Mike held the rope. I sought shelter under the trees as it was getting very hot. Went back to ask the lad if we were OK to moor on the quay above the lock, maybe a couple of days. No problem. When we got to the quay it had a notice saying Halte de Pugant Payant and a phone number. I rang the number and a recorded voice said they were closed until Oct 2009 and gave another phone number. Mike walked back to the lock to ask the keeper. He said it was OK. Saw Charley coming up to the lock on the keeper’s CCTV and he asked Mike if it was his boat. No – we’re moored above and just asked about the pay sign?? Must be the heat. Charley came up and moored behind us. Temperature on the roof had soared to 44°C and it was 38°C in the cabin. I made a late lunch at 2.45 p.m. and we put the reflectors in the windows to try and keep the temperature down a bit. Gave Mike a hand to get the bike off the roof and he went to get the car and collect his new tyre (30€ ouch!) from the bike shop in Bray (he also had a new spark plug (4,90€). I started on the log but gave up after I’d done about half as I was making too many typos. Sweltered and dozed. Put the fan on and drank loads of water. It was gone seven thirty when Mike returned, he said the guy in the shop had had a long conversation with a customer and then another one on the phone. Gave him a hand to put the bike back on a blisteringly hot roof. No cooking, I was already dissolving. Mike heated some cassoulet for his dinner, I passed and had a glass of coke. We watched the rolling News and French weather (thunderstorms due, well I never would have thought it).
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