Hot and sunny clouding over late afternoon, storms with torrential rain later. Off at 9.15 a.m. following Charley down to the first lock, 78 Vaux (0.98m). On to the ski zone, with the channel limited to the left side by a row of red cans. Today all the speedboats were tied up and we were having trouble keeping left. Mike moved inside the red cans and went down the middle of the river where the depth increased from one metre to over three! No wonder the boat wanted to go right! At lock 79 Augy (1.15m) a young lady worked the lock. The lock house was closed up and the keeper had an “office” in a small stone building opposite the lock house. I made a cuppa as we ran down a wide river section to lock 80 Prieuilly (0.82m). We hovered above the lock as there was a lone LeBoat coming up. Crowds of hikers were rambling up the towpath taking photos. A wiry young lad worked the shallow lock. A Hapimag hireboat from Vermenton was waiting below. Down the last of the Nivernais locks at 81 Batardeau (1.03m) with ancient wooden sheds on the side opposite the lock house and another youth was in charge.
There was a canoe school in the wide stretch of river heading down in to the city of Auxerre but they all moved over as we passed. In the centre of town the port de plaisance (now run by a Dutchman) was packed with “dead” boats moored three abreast. At the downstream end there were three modern Dutch Barges all the same with the first one named Decize that we had seen earlier on the year (going towards Cercy at the end of April to be exact, now we wondered if they were charter boats). A LeBoat hireboat was in front as we went into the first of the big Yonne locks, 1 La Chainette. There was plenty of room and we tied on the left wall opposite Charley and chatted as the lock emptied. The keeper pressed buttons so no need for locking duties other than holding ropes.
Two lock keepers houses stood alongside the lock dating from when the locks were manually operated and had two shifts of keepers working to keep the commercials running. Sadly there are no commercials only pleasure boats, at this end of the Yonne anyway. 1.5 kms to lock 2 L’Ile Brûlée (1.84m) One of the Americans off the hireboat in front came to ask Mike how far it was to Migennes and would they make it there by tonight? 20kms and 7 locks, they would be OK with the distance, about three hours travelling time, but the locks are slow they take about twenty minutes each if they’re ready, maybe an hour if there’s something coming up.
That said they ought to get there before closing time. 1.77 kms to lock 3 Dumonts (1.85m). Mike asked the keeper what time they closed for lunch, 12.30 – 1.30 p.m. and I asked what time they closed for the night, 7.00 p.m. Mike told the Americans. We dropped down slowly as either the top end cill was leaky or the keeper had left a paddle up. 1.6 kms to lock 4 Boisseaux where a younger guy worked the lock. Mike asked if we could stop in the full chamber of the next lock for lunch and he immediately replied no, on n’a pas la droite – not allowed against the rules, etc. We tied up at the Halte Nautique at Monéteau where a sign said the depth was only 0.7m. It was OK for us (we’d stayed there overnight before and made note it was OK as long as the river level was normal) and Charley came alongside. All the picnic benches were occupied – we were the only boats there. Lunch. Moved on again at 1.15 p.m. and the hireboat (which had tied to the rocky bank further on in the village) untied and followed Charley into the lock, 5 Monéteau, which had a vertical wall and a sloping wall with pontoons on rails.
They stayed on the vertical wall same as us. Mike told them we were staying at Gurgy for the weekend and we told the young keeper too. Two swans swam into the chamber as we left. The keeper closed the gates and headed for the top end – he’s never going to fill the lock to let the swans out on the upper level?? We didn’t stop to look. Round two sharp bends with trees on both banks and we saw the first grebe we’d seen this year. Nick had already tied up under the trees at Gurgy and was checking the depth with a boat pole to check it was OK for us. The bottom shoaled so he moved up until they were bows to bows with the only other boat moored there, a LeBoat. We got in but Mike wasn’t keen to be under the trees as we needed a space to get the satellite and sunshine for the solar system so we moved a bit further upriver. Diana and I spotted a traffic notice that banned parking on Sunday as there was to be a Vide Grenier – French car boot sale. Gave Mike a hand to unload the bike down a plank, to the amusement of the campervan fraternity lined up along the moorings who watched every move. Mike watched the start of the World Cup football match France v Uruguay They drew 0-0.
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